Wine Guy: What you need to know about B.C. craft pilsner

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All pilsners are lagers, but not all lagers are pilsners. Following? Since pilsners are bottom-fermented following the cooler temperature lagering process they are squarely in the broad-based lager canon.

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That said, pilsner is known as a particularly flavourful, almost spicy lighter-coloured lager. This style is attributed to the malted barley and Saaz hops featured in the original pilsner beer recipe, which was first brewed in the Czech Republic city of Pilsen. Regardless, any way it’s put pilsner is a lip-smacking, sassy beer that is ready to take on spring and summer sipping duties. 

Tofino Brewing Co. Bohemia Style Pilsner, Tofino

($12.49 for four 473 mL cans, #605821)

There’s no official requirement for brewers to follow any strict pilsner protocol. So consider B.C. craft pilsner more an homage, though admittedly one that seems to have gained popularity among local brewmasters, who largely adhere to generally accepted pilsner traits. As the name — not to mention the can art — suggests, Tofino Brewing’s recently launched pilsner keeps things traditional, with European malts and Czech Saaz and Tettnang hops utilized to provide engaging notes of citrus, cereal, and a hint of spice. It’s quite robust overall before a crisp, noticeably bitter finish sets the palate up for the next sip. 

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Bottom line: B+, Bring on all the food, barbecued to fried chicken.

Hoyne Brewing Co. Che Bello Italian Pilsner, Victoria

($12.49 for four 473mL cans, #347110)

What makes a pilsner Italian? This is a valid question, and Victoria’s Hoyne Brewing would likely point to the obvious: their Che Bello Italian Pilsner is made using malted Italian barley alongside select European hops including Spalter Select and Saphir. “How beautiful” the beer hits both honest and engaging, its bright golden colour wafting aromas of earth, cereal, and even flowers and spice. The overall body is lighter and less forceful, but the finish is crisp and strong with a hint of malt. All in all it’s a fun — borderline crushable yet immensely flavourful — pilsner option.

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Bottom line: B, The obvious choice is cheesy pizza.

Slow Hand Beer Co.. Alora Pilsner, East Vancouver

(from $16.00 for four 473mL cans, available at the winery and secret private stores)

Finally, the most fruity and curveball pilsner of the trio. Which doesn’t come as a surprise considering Slow Hand’s candid can communications, the label boldly reading “Crisp and clean with citrus and tropical notes.” Indeed, and credit squarely goes to the new Alora hop variety that was just introduced to market this year and purports to bring higher levels of Selinene, which in turns provides aromatic associations of tropical fruit. This pilsner is a collaboration brew with Calgary’s Eighty-Eight Brewing Co.; it’s bold and fruity, bringing associations of orange and yuzu that carry through a robust, tropical fruit finish. 

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Bottom line: B+, Great with curry and noodle dishes.

The Swirl: Best of the Bench Dinner & Tasting

Naramata Bench aficionados take note: the 3rd annual Best of the Bench event is happening June 6 at Poplar Grove Winery. Hosted by Master of Wines Siobhan Turner and Doug Frost, the evening promises a selection of wines from more than 25 Naramata Bench producers, all sipped alongside the winemakers and winery owners. The wines are complemented by canapés and food stations curated by The Restaurant at Poplar Grove. Tickets to this popular event are $125, plus GST. For complete details and to purchase head to naramatabench.com.

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