James Nevison: The season is changing, and the wines in the tasting glass are evolving accordingly.
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Spring or summer? Fall or winter? Do you prefer the seasonal extremes or the shoulder seasons? Too general a question, to be fair — there’s something to enjoy and look forward to every season.
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That said, there’s no denying the cooler mornings and evenings, not to mention the downward decrease in daylight hours. The season is changing, and the wines in the tasting glass are evolving accordingly:
Nk’Mip Cellars 2022 Dreamcatcher, B.C. ($26.99, No. 615732)
There’s no textbook definition for “shoulder season wine.” Like all things vinous it’s subjective, more about a vibe and a feeling. Speaking in broad strokes, shoulder season wines might be a bit richer, a little smoother — but still fun and vibrant.
Nk’Mip’s Dreamcatcher is an aromatic delight, a blend of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Ehrenfelser that pleases the palate with aromas of citrus and stone fruit. Evident sweetness is balanced and kept bright by acidity, creating a comforting yet lively white ready for patio duty well into September — even if the heaters need to be turned on.
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Bottom line: B+, pair with a picnic.
Solvero 2023 Rosé, B.C. ($25, available through the winery and select private wine stores)
Don’t put the Rosé away just yet. Rosé is perfect shoulder season wine, bringing white wine vivaciousness along with red wine resoluteness.
In other words, it can be bright but robust — a style nicely encapsulated in Solvero’s Rosé.
Crafted from 100 per cent Pinot Noir, it was hand-harvested and saw three hours of skin contact before the juice was pressed off the skins.
The resulting pink blush wine wafts red berry and herbs, with lively fruit featuring throughout. Subtle richness builds toward a smooth, elegant and dry finish.
This is the bottle to pair with late summer grilled salmon dinners or really anything else coming off the barbecue.
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Bottom line: B+, zippy elegance.
Hester Creek 2022 GSM, B.C. ($34.99, available through the winery and select private wine stores)
More hearty reds start to feature during the shoulder season, but to meet the September vibe they still need to bring a touch of pizzazz. Which is an apt summation of Hester Creek’s GSM, so labelled to denote the Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre grapes in the wine’s mix.
Modelled on a classic southern French blend, GSM’s calling card is a robust backbone met by playful, punchy fruit and aromatics. Which is what this bottle brings: a bold menu of berry, toasty oak, earth and lingering spice all in a juicy, extroverted style with evident acidity and lingering spice to finish.
Bottom line: A-, sassy and sumptuous.
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The Swirl: The Great Canadian Beer Festival
The country’s oldest beer festival, the Great Canadian Beer Festival moves to a new location for its 30th edition.
Taking place Sept. 6 (4 to 9 p.m.) and 7 (noon to 5 p.m.), this year the festival heads to Victoria’s Topaz Park.
The same great experience is on offer, with more than 200 Canadian craft beers to sample alongside live music, games and activities.
Entrance starts at $25 (general admission and premium VIP packages are also available). For complete information and to purchase go to victoriabeersociety.com/gcbf/
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