Wine Guy: Exploring sherry 3 different ways

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First a point of clarification. While sherry is tagged in the headline — and indeed the names on these bottles, many of the classic production techniques, and even their taste profile may be similar to sherry — none of this week’s picks is sherry. They are distinct wines from Montilla-Moriles, a classic winemaking region in its own right, albeit lesser known than its Jerez neighbour. This week’s picks are all from long-standing Montilla-Moriles producer Bodegas Alvear. It’s a lineup offering fun side-by-side comparison, working from bone dry to dessert-level sweet, and a great introduction to these unique regional wines.

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Alvear Fino, Spain

($22.99, #112771)

Unlike in sherry, Pedro Ximénez is the main grape used in Montilla-Moriles. Even in Fino wines. Such is the case with Alvear’s Fino, which is a bone dry, 100 per cent PX lip-smacker. But like Fino sherry, it’s produced in a solera system under a layer of flor — a yeast covering that protects the wine from contact with air. The result is a very unique wine style that admittedly can be a tad polarizing. This is not rich, comforting wine. It’s nutty and briny, full of green olive notes with an overt twang to finish. Plus it’s fantastic sipped as an aperitif with salty tapas or toasted nuts.

Bottom line: B+, Uniquely refreshing.

Alvear Medium Dry, Spain

($23.49, #112789)

If you’re looking for a little more richness and smoothness, then step up to Medium Dry. Again made entirely from Pedro Ximénez grapes, the Medium Dry has seen even longer in the solera system and is a blend of Amontillado and PX, with the addition of sweet wine to finish. The result is deeper mahogany colour in the glass, with robust aromas of roasted nuts, dried citrus, and caramel. It comes across sweet yet balanced, juicy even, with evident acidity smoothing things out before a sumptuous finish. Think tapas again, a hearty onion soup, or hard ripened cheese.

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Bottom line: A-, Playfully comforting.

Alvear Solera 1927 Pedro Ximénez, Spain

($33.99 for 375mL, #614834)

Finally, for an unabashed sweet treat reach for the Solera 1927. As the name implies, PX is again the focus, but the grapes for this wine are sourced from special identified, older vineyards. The wine in the bottle is also aged significantly longer. We’re talking on average 30 years old, with a portion of the liquid in the constantly evolving solera dating back to its inception in 1927. Dark brown in colour, aromas of figs, toffee, and dried fruit abound in this unctuous, fulsome and captivating nectar. A treat for after dinner sipping, no pairing is required, it’s liquid dessert unto itself.

Bottom line: A, Unashamedly decadent.

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 The Swirl: Victoria International Wine Festival

The Victoria International Wine Festival returns to the capital city Oct. 4 and 5. Based at the Victoria Conference Centre, a number of seminars are on offer, along with tasting sessions featuring more than 400 wines. Tickets to the festival range from $47.99 for each seminar, $95 for a tasting session, or $199 for a super-pass entrance to all tastings and two seminars. For details head to vicwf.com/. 

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