The word reserve is found emblazoned on many wine labels. But what does it mean?
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What’s in a name? Or in this case, what’s with a word? The word reserve is found emblazoned on many wine labels. But what does it mean? Does it bear real significance? It depends on the wine region. It depends on the winery. And it, of course, depends on the marketing team promoting the wine. So here are a few considerations to keep in mind when picking up a bottle of reserve wine.
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Cono Sur 2022 Reserva Especial Carmenere, Chile
($15.99, #464990)
Not much translation is required to note that reserva is Spanish for reserve, and likewise especial is self-explanatory. Indeed reserva is employed quite judiciously on wine bottles from South America. Perhaps its partly a connection with wines from Spain (see next bottle), but since there is no legal restriction on using the term it’s no doubt also part of a marketing push to associate wines with higher quality. Cono Sur uses Reserva Especial to set apart their Valley Collection of wines, which highlight the “best valley for each variety.” In the case of this sumptuous, dark fruit and smooth mocha-imbued Carmenere that valley is the Cachapoal.
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Bottom line: B, Comforting red.
Viña Real 2019 Rioja Crianza, Spain
($24.99, #356386)
Wait a sec, there’s no reserve or reserva on this wine label. True, and when it comes to use of the word for Spanish wine they really mean business. In the Rioja region the term reserva can legally only be used for wines that have aged a minimum of three years (with one year in oak barrel). Here we have Crianza, which again by law and decree tells consumers the wine has aged for at least two years (with one year in oak barrel). Viña Real Crianza is heady, with evident tannins and engaging fruit and floral aromatics before a languid finish.
Bottom line: B+, Food wine: bring on the ribs or earthy roasted mushrooms.
Blue Mountain 2022 Reserve Cuvée Chardonnay, B.C.
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($39.90, winery direct)
Even amid marketing hype or lack of a legal framework, the term reserve can — and understandably should — connote a more elevated, or refined tier. In this case it’s typically up to the winery to establish provenance. For example, Okanagan Fall’s Blue Mountain is clear with their tiers: Estate Cuvée for the main line, and Reserve Cuvée to signify “a select blend of the vintage producing enhanced structure, finesse and elegance.” Their 2022 Reserve Chard was just released, and it brings bright citrus and generous fruit complemented by fine-grained, creamy texture and elegant overall structure — perfect for serving with roast chicken or pasta Alfredo.
Bottom line: A, Rich yet refined.
The Swirl: 2021 Bordeaux Release
It’s that time of year again. B.C. liquor’s annual Bordeaux Release arrives in stores starting Sept. 28. One of wine collectors’ most anticipated events, this year it’s all about the 2021 vintage of Bordeaux. A range of wines will be available, from white to red — even a few Sauternes — in a range of prices. Fifty-six B.C. liquor stores will have 2021 Bordeaux available, for complete details and a list of wines head to bcliquorstores.com/promotion/bordeaux-release.
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