Growing garlic: How to ensure a healthy harvest next summer

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Q. The garlic I harvested this past July was a disappointment. The bulbs were small. The planting through spring did not look very healthy. I’d appreciate tips on soil conditions most likely to result in plump, heavy bulbs to harvest next July. I do know that, before planting, the soil needs to have cooled and become moist with fall rains.

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A. As with most plantings, choosing a suitable site comes first. For garlic, the best possible planting site is in full sun, with a soil that is well-drained.

Because the garlic will be in the ground through mid-July, with rooting taking place through the fall, it is worthwhile spending time amending the soil to create conditions that will fully nourish the developing roots and spring top growth.

Scratch or lightly fork in lime if the soil is more than slightly acidic. I also incorporate a slow-release, natural-source fertilizer blend and a generous layer (five to eight cm) of high quality compost. And because my soil is light-textured, porous and quick to dry, I also add a shallow layer of coconut fibre (coir) for enhanced moisture retention.

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Given a congenial planting site and a robust, fertile soil, garlic planted in cooling and moderately rainy fall conditions should yield a satisfying harvest next July.

Q. Late in the summer, some of my large kale plants developed a whitish coating on the larger, older leaves. Should leaves in this condition be removed from the plants?

A. There is no need to remove the affected leaves. As long as there is some green colouring in them, they continue working to support the plant. I remove older kale leaves only once they have discoloured and collapsed, to tidy the plants. Those leaves can be safely composted.

New leaves that continue to develop through the fall will not be prone to powdery mildew infection, because of their youth and also because rainy weather offers protection. On wet leaves, fungal spores cannot germinate to spread the disease.

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